It’s been a busy month! We’ve made some decisions that have been hanging over us for some time. While we were in Jamaica and the excitement of crossing the Caribbean Sea began to wear off, we seemed to be in somewhat of a “funk”, not really knowing where we were going or what we would be doing once we got there. The “recession” doesn’t help matters as we were constantly hearing stories of lay-offs, closures and losses. Truth be told…it is a good time to be away from it all on our sailboat, however the time had come we realize, where we have to begin to build our future which inevitably means building our finances. Although working while sailing keeps us going, it doesn’t get us ahead. So…decisions, decisions. After being gone close to 3 years, and with the way of the world, the things that matter most to us at this time we’ve discovered is being close to those we love (our dear friends and family). So after weighing our options with all considered, (and for me….along with some heart to hearts with Mike, my sister and my friend Lieran), we came to the decision to return to the place we had left. We hope to arrive in Thornbury harbour in July 2009, exactly 3 years after our departure. Mike to stay with Meggie in the harbour as he has a job lined up and me for a short time before heading to France or Fort Lauderdale to work on a mega yacht for 6 months (although this could change). We feel good about our decision. It’s bittersweet as one chapter will close and another will begin.When we left we didn’t really know what to expect or where we would go, but we always hoped to make it to South America and we’ve accomplished what we set out to do. We are so fortunate to have been able to take this time and experience all that we have. Sometimes I can’t honestly imagine not living aboard our small, intimate, comfy boat we call home, to enter back into the land of reality and all that comes along with it, but we’ve grown individually and together and have learned a lot about one another and ourselves that will accompany us and our lifestyle on land. And, I must admit….I’m due for a really good shop and I can’t wait to get on my bike and my snowboard. As for Mike…he could sail forever and ever, but he does miss his tools!
Meggie is great…we couldn’t ask for a better boat. We are excited to be able to address issues in which we won’t be rushed to fix and improve her as she enters into her vintage stage.
Whew….now with all of that said, it could be because time is ticking down, but the last couple of months have been incredible…some of our best! We left you just before Christmas in Guanaja, one of our most favourite islands.The Christmas pot luck was a huge success, complete with turkey, gravy, all the fixins and sunshine. We cruised the 2nm up to the beautiful Josh’s Cay where diving, swimming, fishing and chillin’ filled our days before new years where we celebrated on a palm fringed island complete with good music, good people good times.
January 1st, we weighed anchor and headed west, leaving a wonderful place in our wake. As for Roatan….we were there 3 days, not much to say other than not really our cup of tea. Nice beaches, good diving, but nothing special. So…onto Utila.
Utila is a bit of a backpackers island for divers. Cheap accommodation, cheap restaurants, cheap beer and a cool relaxed atmosphere…perfect! We hung out in Utila for a few days, but I had the Guatemala itch and couldn’t wait to get there.
We stopped along the mainland of Honduras to break up our passage to the Rio Dulce as we had wind on the nose and the wind chop was anything but fun. Thank God we stopped! We entered between the jungle lined hills that create the cut from a confused sea to the flat calm of the anchorage. Once anchored, you could hear the commotion of jungle life as the day came to an end. We were anchored in Luguna el Diamente which is a national park so there is nothing but jungle around you. We found a trail that meandered along the peninsula that first led to Bahia Escondido and then continued into the jungle that led up, up and up until we were at the highest point of the peninsula and were rewarded with a stunning view and a howler monkey chillin out. It was our first encounter with the howlers, so we were pretty excited. We descended and took another trail that was soon filled with rustling noise above us. We looked up and there in the crux of a tree was another howler making a motion with his arm and a low grunting noise… we looked to the left and there were 6 more! I’m sure we was warning them of our presence. 5 adult howlers and 1 baby played in the branches above us, showing off swinging from limb to limb and hanging from their tails. It was quite a show. As we began to leave them, the “Bid Daddy”(who didn’t move from the crux the whole time) let out his “big daddy” howl and now we know why they’re called howler monkeys. That noise reached right inside out, enough to make your heart stop. I’m not sure if he was saying “Thank you, come again” or “Don’t come back now…ya hear”. In any case…it was pretty amazing.
With a forecasted easterly wind, we set out for a 60nm run to Cabo Tres Punta, only 9.5nm from the gateway to the Rio Dulce. We hung out in Tres Punta for 2 nights as it was the weekend and we didn’t want to get charged double by the customs, but come Monday we were off, and after beating into fresh westerlies in the pouring rain for 9.5 nm we arrived at the gateway.
We cleared into Guatemala in the bohemiafunked town of Livingston before we began our way up the cliff lined gorge of the Rio Dulce. As the mist hung off the cliffs that lined the gorge we motored our way fighting a 1-1.5 knot current up the river. There is nothing but green that surrounds you as you make hairpin turns that wind deep into Guatemala. Because we weren’t travelling with another boat, Mike had rigged up a “system” where he got in the dinghy and I dropped him back about 200 feet on our extra anchor rode so he could take pictures of Meggie along the way. It worked great until I had to winch him back in all 200 feet!
We watched Mayan children paddle along the river in their dugout canoes, called cayucos and watched others cast their shrimping nets from these narrow little boats.
We finally arrived at our destination marina where we will keep Meggie tied to the dock as we travel inland.It’s a nice marina…not what you think when you think marina, but it does come complete with hot showers! I couldn’t wait, so after 2 days securing Meggie and getting her set we took a short trip to Flores which lies only 1 hour from Tikal National Park.
Our bus ride to Flores was typical…the driver had his wife and small boy sitting in the front with him, so he spent more time playing with them than he did looking at the road. I somehow got the last seat, while Mike sat on a cushion on top of the engine compartment, while about 40 other poor people stood in the aisle, and of course….there was a chicken, but I was assured that this wasn’t “the chicken bus”. Then about 1 hour left to go, the bus had a bit of a break down for about 30 minutes, but “no problemo” we got going again. It’s all about the adventure not the destination!
Flores is a sweet little village. An island connected by a causeway is completely different to it’s neighbour town of Santa Elena. The next morning we grabbed one of the many shuttles to the park. The weather was gloomy, but this kept the tourists away and the park wasn’t very busy at all. For those of you who don’t know what Tikal is, aside from being a protected haven for many species of flora and fauna of Guatemala, it is one of the largest monumental cultural and natural reserves of the Republic of Guatemala.
It is a glimpse of the Mayan culture that dates back as far as 700BC, with some temples towering 40-57 metres high. We climbed one temple in particular, Temple V at 57 metres, and although the steepness made my feet tingle, as you sit atop this temple over looking the central acropolis and the Gran Plaza, you try to envision what this lost ancient city was like soooo long ago. You’re sitting above the jungle canopy and the only sounds are those of the jungle, and it truly is magical. We had just seen the movie Apocalypto, so visions of the Mayan city in the movie were fresh in our minds. It’s hard to describe Tikal…it’s something that should be experienced. The history that surrounds you is astounding. It is truly a magical place…it’s just so unbelievable to be looking at something that has so much to tell. Mike said at one point as we gazed at the Gran Plaza….”If only walls could talk”. Then the next group of loud tourists comes along and you’re snapped back to reality.
The rain held off for 5 hours as we toured around the large park taking everything in.
We went back to Flores for the night before returning back to Meggie.
We plan on heading inland again for about a 2 week trip which will take us to Antigua, Chichicastenango, Lago Atilan, Solola and Todos Santos….and I am very excited. You can’t believe the color and the fabrics and the weaving by the Mayans…it’s unbelievable.
So in a big nutshell that’s it. Now that I’ve written a novel, I’m going to sign off.
Hasta Luego,
Kylie and Mike